Situs Warungboto, A Testament to Yogyakarta's Rich History

KBRN, Yogyakarta: Hidden among the dense settlements of Yogyakarta, lies a historical site that holds the traces of the past, Situs Warungboto (Warungboto Site), formerly known as Pesanggrahan Rejowinangun.

The remnants of this 18th-century building are an integral part of Yogyakarta's history, bearing witness to the long journey of the Mataram Kingdom. The mystical and romantic atmosphere that envelops the ruins invites visitors to imagine the past life in Yogyakarta.

Situs Warungboto, now a tourist destination, offers an easy access for travelers. Located at Jalan Veteran No. 77, Warungboto Village, Umbulharjo Subdistrict, Yogyakarta City, this site is easy to reach by both two-wheeled and four-wheeled vehicles.

Its location, only about four km from the city's Ground Zero, makes it an ideal destination for tourists who wish to enjoy the architectural beauty and history of ancient buildings without traveling far.

From above, the layout of Situs Warungboto unfolded clearly. Potted plants adorned the courtyard, while the remnants of the structures evoked the grandeur of the complex's past. (Photo: RRI English/Diva Rifdah Rizkia Puspitaningnala)

Pesanggrahan Rejowinangun is deeply intertwined with the significant event that marked the inception of this city, standing as a silent testament to Yogyakarta's rich history. On February 13, 1755, the Treaty of Giyanti divided the Mataram Kingdom into Kasunanan Surakarta and Kasultanan Yogyakarta.

Under the leadership of Sultan Hamengkubuwana (HB) I, Yogyakarta began to organize itself. The Sultan built a palace with various facilities, including a pesanggrahan, a recreational spot for the royal family.

A surrounding fortress was built both inside (cepuri) and outside (baluwarti) the palace, accompanied by jagang (moats) and settlements designated for palace servants.

Sultan HB I established several magnificent pesanggrahan in Yogyakarta, such as Pesanggrahan Ambarketawang, Tamansari, and Krapyak. These recreational spots served as resting places for the king and his family.

Tranquility and comfort were paramount, hence these pesanggrahan were equipped with beautiful gardens, refreshing segaran (artificial ponds), serene pools, lush gardens, and facilities for religious purposes.

Sultan HB II, celebrated as the 'King of Pesanggrahan Builders,' showcased his passion for architecture and natural beauty from a young age, even as Crown Prince. Between 1765 and 1792 AD, he initiated the construction of several magnificent pesanggrahan, including Pesanggrahan Rejowinangun, Purwareja, Pelem Sewu, and Reja Kusuma.

The arched passageways held a quiet mystery. Light filtered through the doorways, illuminating the aged wall and damp floor. (Photo: RRI English/Diva Rifdah Rizkia Puspitaningnala)

Historical records from Tidjschriff voor Nederlandsch Indie by J.F. Walrofen van Nes (1884), Babad Momana, and Serat Rerenggan indicate that the construction of Pesanggrahan Rejowinangun began in 1785 AD (1711 Jw).

This pesanggrahan is the masterpiece of KGPAA Hamengkunegara, who later ascended the throne as Sultan Hamengkubuwana II in 1792. Babad Momana even mentions the construction year as 1711 Dal, stating "Kanjeng Gusti awit yasa ing Rejawinangun".

Inside the Pesanggrahan Rejowinangun complex, a water source was transformed into a resting and bathing place for the royal family. Dutch official Jan Greeve recorded a visit to this pesanggrahan from August 5-15, 1788 AD to inspect the royal defense facilities.

Pesanggrahan Rejowinangun, now better known as Umbul Warungboto, stands on the border between Rejawinangun and Warungboto, Yogyakarta. This brick structure without wood utilizes the terraces of the Gajah Wong River.

The pesanggrahan complex is divided into two parts, east and west of the river, with an imaginary east-west axis. Tourists can explore the remnants of the pesanggrahan's grandeur, imagining the life of the king and his family in the past.

This brick construction, with no wooden framework, is divided into two distinct sections. The west side features a sacred pool and multi-story buildings, while the east side houses a 'U'-shaped pool and remnants of flowerpots, organized into three complexes until 1936.

Between 1936 and 1937, Dutch researchers conducted studies that resulted in detailed reconstruction maps and photographs.

Emergency repairs by Oudheidkundige Dienst (OD) in 1939, began preservation efforts. The 2006 earthquake worsened the damage, but gradual restoration from 2009 to 2016 restored the beauty of the pesanggrahan.

From an elevated vantage point, the mossy pool at Warungboto became a focal point. The geometric patterns of the walls and staircases led visitors' eyes to the green-tinged water, a silent testament to the past. (Photo: RRI English/Diva Rifdah Rizkia Puspitaningnala)

The website warungbotokel.jogjakota.go writes, Pesanggrahan Rejowinangun was not only a resting place for the king and his family, but also an eastern defense fortress for the Yogyakarta Palace.

Inside, a bathing pool served as a cleansing facility for the royal family. A spring flowed within the pesanggrahan, supplying fresh water to the pool. Unfortunately, this spring no longer flows, leaving the pool dry.

It is said that the existence of the spring (or 'tuk' in Javanese) gave rise to the name Tuk Umbul for Pesanggrahan Rejowinangun. Because it is located in the administrative area of Warungboto, this site is also known as Situs Warungboto.

The pesanggrahan building is divided into several rooms, including a changing room and a 'mihrab' (prayer niche) on the west side of the pool, where the king and his family worshiped. At the north and south corners of the back of the building, there is a "high building" or observation tower, which functioned as a place to spy on enemies in that era.

Nadia, a tourist from Bekasi, West Java, expressed her admiration when visiting Situs Warungboto. She admitted that she had never seen such a historical site before. "This place is very interesting, especially since historical buildings like this are hard to find in big cities like Bekasi," said Nadia.

Situs Warungboto, with its unique architecture and high historical value, is a special attraction for tourists, both local and foreign. "I hope that cultural heritage sites like this can continue to be preserved so that future generations can witness the architectural beauty and history of these buildings," she added.

The site opens from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. local time. Tourists are welcome to explore the ancient building complex. Interestingly, visitors are not charged an entrance fee, making this site a budget-friendly option for all groups.

However, it is important to remember that the beauty and historical value of Situs Warungboto must be preserved together, so visitors are expected to maintain cleanliness and order while on the site. ***