RRI.CO.ID, Jakarta – Indonesia has long been known as an exporter of raw essential oils. The Applied Botany Research Center of the National Research and Innovation Agency (BRIN) has now changing that perception by creating high-value derivative products, from luxury perfumes to beauty serums based on indigenous Indonesian plants.

A researcher at the research center, Aswandi, said Indonesia's frankincense has extraordinary economic potential if processed with the right technology. Currently, Indonesia exports 5 to 8 tons of raw frankincense per year, valued at tens of millions of U.S. dollars.

Aswandi explained how plants that are often considered mystical, such as frankincense and camphor, are sought after by the global cosmetics industry, especially from France and Europe. He said frankincense-based perfume in Paris, France can be sold for a minimum of Rp5 million (about US$297.5), while the raw materials can be obtained at a much more affordable price.

"So, actually, we have many partners. In fact, we're already working on it. Some will also be coming to Indonesia, including French and European companies, who will try out how to use these products," Aswandi said at the 2026 Applied Bioscience Business Meeting in Jakarta on Thursday, 26 February 2026.

Based on research data, the frankincense perfume resulting from BRIN's innovation contains complex compounds such as Bornyl acetate which provides a spicy and woody aroma. Linalool, which provides a touch of sweet floral and citrus aroma, is also present.

“We created a highly concentrated signature perfume that not only lasts long but also has aromatherapy properties,” he added, as quoted from BRIN's news release on Friday, 27 February 2026.

Besides frankincense, research focused on the camphor tree. Aswandi said that a gram of natural camphor in the past was worth the same as a gram of gold; its economic value remains high to this day.

"But the camphor we use in our homes isn't the camphor I'm referring to. It's made from a plant that has long been synonymous with Islamic civilization in Indonesia. In fact, these ingredients are very Indonesian. They're not found anywhere else," Aswandi explained.

The innovation, called "Kafura Perfumes", utilizes resin from the Dryobalanops aromatica tree. The fresh, cool aroma of camphor (menthol) is combined with other Indonesian spices to create a product that is highly sought after in the Middle East and European markets.

"Industrial demand from Paris reaches 200,000 tons per year. However, we often face supply constraints due to forest destruction. Therefore, we are also focusing on conserving the lime tree population in North Sumatra," Aswandi stressed.

BRIN is working to conserve the largest population of lime trees recently discovered in North Sumatra. It is hoped that the raw material can be managed sustainably without destroying the forest.

Aswandi also introduced "Clowee Parfum", a clove-based product that perfectly represents the archipelago's natural richness. Interestingly, BRIN research found that the aroma of Indonesian cloves is not uniform.

"Although Maluku is known as the center of clove production, each region in Indonesia has its own distinct clove aroma, due to the unique compounds contained in each clove. We've tried it in Maluku, Manado, and Sumatra, and they all have different results," he explained.

Another fragrance innovation is the "Reed Diffuser", a natural air freshener. Aswandi highlighted the widespread use of synthetic air fresheners in various settings, despite the potential health risks lurking behind.

"Often, when we enter a room, the fragrance we smell is derived from chemicals or synthetics. If inhaled over a long period of time, this can actually be risky for our health," Aswandi said.

He claimed that using fragrances made from BRIN-produced natural compounds is much safer because it doesn't leave harmful residues in the body. Besides being healthier, it is said as a "real solution" for increasing the selling value of local commodities.

BRIN, in addition to fragrance innovations, also develops skincare products using nano-emulsion technology. These products include serums and facial creams that harness the power of frankincense and patchouli oils.

"Well, we're also trying to produce a kind of cream from frankincense oil, an emulsion. The product is similar to a serum, with the goal of improving skin structure to make it more hydrated and glowing," Aswandi explained.

Currently, around 80 percent of cosmetic raw materials in Indonesia are imported. However, they are exported cheaply and repurchased by consumers as expensive finished products.