RRI.CO.ID, Jakarta - Mbah Marto's Mangut Lele is known as a legendary Bantul, Yogyakarta specialty that is loved by generations. Its flavor is simple, hearty, and suitable for everyone.

The story begins with the struggle of Mbah Marto Ijoyo, who started her business in the 1960s. She walked nearly 20 kilometers from Bantul to Beringharjo Market in Yogyakarta to sell her mangut lele.

Dayat, the second-generation owner of Warung Mangut Lele Mbah Marto, recalls the early days of this culinary business, which has been passed down through generations. "Mbah Marto used to leave home at ten in the morning and come home as early as sunset, even earlier if it was selling well," he said on Sunday, February 8, 2026.

According to Dayat, the key to the deliciousness of Mbah Marto's mangut lele lies in the traditional process that has been consistently maintained. "The cooking method is still the same as it was in the past, using a wood stove, from Mbah Marto's time until now," he said.

Another unique feature, Dayat continued, is the skewers used when smoking the catfish. He uses coconut fronds, or bongkok, to keep the catfish straight while smoking.

"The bongkok can impart a savory aroma to the catfish. I used to use bamboo, but the sap can affect the flavor," Dayat said.

Mangut lele, a traditional Central Javanese and Yogyakarta dish, consists of catfish (often smoked) cooked in a spicy, savory coconut milk sauce rich in spices. This dish features a blend of smoky aromas, ground yellow spices, and basil, creating a complex and distinctive flavor.

Now, people who want to experience the authentic taste of Mbah Marto's mangut lele, a Bantul specialty, simply come to Dayat's stall, located in Sewon, Bantul, Yogyakarta.

"We don't have any other branches, only in Sewon, Bantul. This is the same location where Mbah Marto first started selling," Dayat said.

Besides catfish mangut, the stall also offers other dishes. "There's mangut kepala mangut, mangut belut (eel mangut), garang asem ayam (chicken with sour sauce), and many more," said Dayat. (Misni Parjiati/Bambang MBKA)